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    <title>Soldering on TurboVision</title>
    <link>https://turbovision.in6-addr.net/tags/soldering/</link>
    <description>Recent content in Soldering on TurboVision</description>
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    <lastBuildDate>Tue, 21 Apr 2026 14:06:12 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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      <title>Hand-Soldering 0402 Components</title>
      <link>https://turbovision.in6-addr.net/electronics/soldering-smd-by-hand/</link>
      <pubDate>Sun, 28 Dec 2025 00:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
      <lastBuildDate>Mon, 09 Mar 2026 09:46:27 +0100</lastBuildDate>
      <guid>https://turbovision.in6-addr.net/electronics/soldering-smd-by-hand/</guid>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;0402 passives measure 1.0 × 0.5 mm. They&amp;rsquo;re barely visible to the naked
eye, yet hand-soldering them is doable with the right technique: flux,
a fine conical tip, thin solder wire, and patience.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The key is to tin one pad first, tack the component down, then solder the
other side. A stereo microscope helps but isn&amp;rsquo;t strictly necessary if you
have good lighting and steady hands.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;What usually fails is not dexterity, but process order. If you approach 0402
work like through-hole soldering, parts tombstone, slide, or disappear into
the carpet. If you stage the work correctly, the joints become boringly
repeatable.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;h2 id=&#34;workflow-that-keeps-rework-low&#34;&gt;Workflow that keeps rework low&lt;/h2&gt;
&lt;ol&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Clean pads with isopropyl alcohol.&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Add liquid flux before touching solder.&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Pre-tin exactly one pad with a tiny amount.&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Hold the part with tweezers, reflow that pad, and &amp;ldquo;tack&amp;rdquo; alignment.&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Solder the second pad with minimal dwell time.&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Revisit the first pad only if wetting looks poor.&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;/ol&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The microscope is optional, but magnification changes quality control. Even a
cheap USB scope catches bridges and cold joints before power-on.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;h2 id=&#34;common-mistakes&#34;&gt;Common mistakes&lt;/h2&gt;
&lt;ul&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Too much solder: creates hidden bridges under the body.&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Too little flux: oxidized pads and grainy joints.&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Too much heat: lifted pads, especially on cheap proto boards.&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Mechanical pressure while heating: parts shoot away or skew.&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;/ul&gt;
&lt;p&gt;My rule is simple: if the joint takes more than a few seconds, stop, re-flux,
and try again. Fighting a dry joint with temperature only makes damage faster.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Related reading:&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;ul&gt;
&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&#34;https://turbovision.in6-addr.net/electronics/microcontrollers/riscv-on-ch32v003/&#34;&gt;RISC-V on a 10-Cent Chip&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&#34;https://turbovision.in6-addr.net/retro/hardware/restoring-a-286/&#34;&gt;Restoring an AT 286&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;/ul&gt;
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